支付
Your phone is the wallet
Alipay and WeChat Pay cover almost everything. Foreign cards work more often than they used to. Keep a little cash for the one stall that still wants it.
the short version
A small field guide from people who live here. Not a packing list. Not a seven-day fantasy itinerary.
Read this on the plane. The longer notes sit underneath.
支付
Alipay and WeChat Pay cover almost everything. Foreign cards work more often than they used to. Keep a little cash for the one stall that still wants it.
高铁
A G-train beats most flights once you count the airport. Book on Trip.com or 12306 with your passport. Stations are their own small cities. Arrive early.
成渝
Chengdu sits in a basin and moves slowly. Chongqing stacks itself over two rivers and never really sits down. Same region on a map. Different trip.
避坑
The famous photo spots at midday are a queue. Go at dusk, or go somewhere the guidebook finished in 2014. A mall with English signs is not the city.
吃
Lunch is the real meal. Hotpot is a night thing. A teahouse is for sitting, not a quick drink. If a place is full of locals at 12:30, sit down.
向导
Which door, which hour, which order to eat. That is the job. You do not need a scripted tour. You need someone who already lives here.
Longer notes, written when there was something worth saying.

Xinjiang
Yining — Where China Looks Russian

Xinjiang
Wenquan — The County Named After Its Hot Springs

Xinjiang
Tuyugou — A Uyghur Village in a Red Gorge

Xinjiang
Tacheng — A Tatar Bakery on the Kazakh Border

Xinjiang
Shanshan — China's Hottest Town, With a Desert in It

Xinjiang
Sayram Lake — The Last Tear of the Atlantic

Xinjiang
Khorgos — The Gate to Central Asia

Xinjiang
Karamay — Black Oil and a Uyghur Wedding

Xinjiang
Jiangbulake — Staying With Kazakh Herders

Xinjiang
Entering Xinjiang — 400 km of Gobi with No Fuel

Xinjiang
Yarkant — Where the Muqam Was Written Down

Xinjiang
Crossing the Taklamakan — The World's Longest Desert Highway

Xinjiang
Turpan — The Oasis Below Sea Level

Xinjiang
The Karakoram Highway

Xinjiang
The Pamir Sky Road — Switchbacks to 4,000 Metres

Xinjiang
A Tajik Wedding in Tashkurgan

Xinjiang
Rural Kashgar — Eating at the Roadside

Xinjiang
Kashgar — The Most Uyghur City in China

Xinjiang
The Ili Valley — Xinjiang's Kazakh Grasslands

Xinjiang
Daliyabuyi — China's Most Isolated Village