支付
Your phone is the wallet
Alipay and WeChat Pay cover almost everything. Foreign cards work more often than they used to. Keep a little cash for the one stall that still wants it.
the short version
A small field guide from people who live here. Not a packing list. Not a seven-day fantasy itinerary.
Read this on the plane. The longer notes sit underneath.
支付
Alipay and WeChat Pay cover almost everything. Foreign cards work more often than they used to. Keep a little cash for the one stall that still wants it.
高铁
A G-train beats most flights once you count the airport. Book on Trip.com or 12306 with your passport. Stations are their own small cities. Arrive early.
成渝
Chengdu sits in a basin and moves slowly. Chongqing stacks itself over two rivers and never really sits down. Same region on a map. Different trip.
避坑
The famous photo spots at midday are a queue. Go at dusk, or go somewhere the guidebook finished in 2014. A mall with English signs is not the city.
吃
Lunch is the real meal. Hotpot is a night thing. A teahouse is for sitting, not a quick drink. If a place is full of locals at 12:30, sit down.
向导
Which door, which hour, which order to eat. That is the job. You do not need a scripted tour. You need someone who already lives here.
Longer notes, written when there was something worth saying.

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Fujian
Quanzhou — The Most Underrated City in China

Guangxi
Yangshuo — The Karst Landscape Everyone Has Already Seen

Gansu
Dunhuang — A Thousand Years of Buddhist Art in a Cliff

Guangdong
Shunde — Where Cantonese Cooking Comes From

Hunan
Zhangjiajie — The Pillars That Became Pandora

Chongqing
Chongqing — The 8D City

Guizhou
Guizhou — The Province That Was Too Steep to Develop

Shaanxi
Xi'an — Where the Silk Road Started

Jiangxi
Jingdezhen — A Thousand Years of Making Porcelain

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China's 56 Ethnic Groups — A Traveller's Field Guide

Sichuan
The Panda Express — China's Luxury Sleeper Train

Xinjiang
Yining — Where China Looks Russian

Xinjiang
Wenquan — The County Named After Its Hot Springs

Xinjiang
Tuyugou — A Uyghur Village in a Red Gorge

Xinjiang
Tacheng — A Tatar Bakery on the Kazakh Border

Xinjiang
Shanshan — China's Hottest Town, With a Desert in It

Xinjiang
Sayram Lake — The Last Tear of the Atlantic

Xinjiang
Khorgos — The Gate to Central Asia

Xinjiang
Karamay — Black Oil and a Uyghur Wedding

Xinjiang
Jiangbulake — Staying With Kazakh Herders

Xinjiang
Entering Xinjiang — 400 km of Gobi with No Fuel

Inner Mongolia
Badain Jaran — The Singing Dunes and Their Hundred Lakes
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Survival Chinese — 50 Phrases That Do 90% of the Work

Yunnan
Yanjin — The Narrowest Town in China

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The Camera Kit We Travel China With

Gansu
Guazhou — Melon County

Ningxia
Zhongwei — Where the Desert Meets the Yellow River

Ningxia
Xi'an to Guyuan — Across the Loess Plateau

Inner Mongolia
Into Inner Mongolia the Long Way — Wuzhong to Alxa Left Banner

Macau
Macau — Four Hundred Years of Portugal, and the Casinos

Zhejiang
Qingtian — The Chinese County That Emigrated to Europe

Guangxi
Dongxing — Walking Across a Bridge into Vietnam

Guangdong
Taishan — The County That Built America's Chinatowns

Guangdong
Shenzhen — A City With No Old Town

Guangdong
Guangzhou's Xiaobei — Little Africa

Zhejiang
The Water Towns — Wuzhen, and the Quieter Alternatives

Yunnan
Ximeng — Va Country on the Myanmar Frontier

Yunnan
Weixi — Lisu Country Between Two Rivers

Yunnan
Shadian — A Hui Town in the Yunnan Hills

Yunnan
Pu'er — Where the Tea Actually Comes From

Yunnan
Menglian — Little Thailand on the Myanmar Border

Yunnan
Luoping — Karst Cones in a Sea of Yellow

Yunnan
Lijiang and the Road to Shangri-La

Yunnan
Honghe — Terraces, Tin Towns and the Vietnamese Border

Yunnan
Deqin — Under a Mountain Nobody Has Climbed

Yunnan
Dali — A Lake, a Mountain Range, and the Bai Towns Between

Yunnan
Cizhong — Tibetan Catholics and a French Vineyard

Yunnan
Azheke and the Hani Rice Terraces

Xinjiang
Yarkant — Where the Muqam Was Written Down

Xinjiang
Crossing the Taklamakan — The World's Longest Desert Highway

Xinjiang
Turpan — The Oasis Below Sea Level

Xinjiang
The Karakoram Highway

Xinjiang
The Pamir Sky Road — Switchbacks to 4,000 Metres

Xinjiang
A Tajik Wedding in Tashkurgan

Xinjiang
Rural Kashgar — Eating at the Roadside

Xinjiang
Kashgar — The Most Uyghur City in China

Xinjiang
The Ili Valley — Xinjiang's Kazakh Grasslands

Xinjiang
Daliyabuyi — China's Most Isolated Village

Tibet
Yadong — The Chumbi Valley, Where Tibet Meets India and Bhutan

Tibet
Tuiwa — A Village at 5,070 Metres

Tibet
Rutog — The Empty Corner of Tibet

Tibet
Pagsum Lake — A Monastery on an Island in a Sacred Lake

Tibet
The Nu River Road — 72 Bends Down to the Salween

Tibet
Mount Kailash — The Holiest Mountain in Asia

Tibet
Medog — The Last County in China to Get a Road

Tibet
Lulang — The Alpine Meadow Tibet Isn't Supposed to Have

Tibet
Lhasa — Where Every Tibetan Road Ends

Tibet
Laigu Glacier — Six Glaciers, One Valley

Tibet
The Kangbu Hot Springs — Medicine in the Himalayan Foothills

Tibet
Chentang — China's Sherpa Valley

Tibet
Chamdo — Rural Tibet, and a Church Beside a Salt Field

Sichuan
Garzê — Grassland, Monasteries and Horses

Sichuan
Ngawa — Grassland, Wetland and the Yellow River's First Bend

Sichuan
Muli — The Kingdom That Inspired Shangri-La

Sichuan
Litang — A Town at 4,000 Metres, No Permit Required

Sichuan
Eya — The Last Village With a Different Idea of Marriage

Sichuan
Butuo — Where the Yi Still Dress Like the Yi

Shaanxi
Huashan — The Mountain With the Plank Walk

Qinghai
Xunhua — A Mosque and a Monastery in the Same Valley

Qinghai
Tongren — Where Thangkas Are Painted

Qinghai
The Qaidam Basin — Salt Flats at 3,000 Metres

Liaoning
Dandong — Looking Into North Korea Across a River

Jilin
Heaven Lake — A Crater Lake on the North Korean Border

Inner Mongolia
Ujimqin — The Grassland That Hasn't Been Fenced

Inner Mongolia
Enhe — A Russian Village in Inner Mongolia

Inner Mongolia
Arxan — Alpine Architecture in a Volcanic Forest

Hunan
Xiangxi — The Real Rural China

Hunan
The Aizhai Bridge — Tunnel to Tunnel, 336 Metres Up

Hong Kong
Hong Kong — Skyscrapers, and Then Mountains

Henan
The Sunken Courtyards of Sanmenxia

Heilongjiang
Heihe — A Chinese City With a Russian One Across the Water

Heilongjiang
Mohe — China's Northernmost Town

Hainan
Village Life in Hainan

Hainan
Sanya — China's Resort Coast

Hainan
Rural Hainan — The Island Behind the Resorts

Hainan
Lingshui's Floating Village

Hainan
Hainan by Motorbike

Hainan
Crossing to Hainan — China's Tropical Island

Guizhou
Zhenyuan — A Riverside Town Between Two Cliffs

Guangxi
Detian — The Waterfall That Belongs to Two Countries

Guangxi
Liuzhou — The City That Exported Snail Noodles to the Nation

Guangxi
The Giant Sinkholes of Leye — Forests at the Bottom of Holes

Gansu
Langmusi — Two Monasteries and a Provincial Border

Gansu
Dongxiang — A Mongolic-Speaking Muslim People in the Loess Hills

Fujian
Tulou — The Earth Fortresses of Fujian

Fujian
The City That Burns Gold

Fujian
A Village God Parade in Remote Fujian

Fujian
New Year in Putian — A Month of It

Fujian
Dehua — Where Blanc de Chine Comes From

Fujian
Anxi — Tieguanyin Country, and a Parade Through the Tea Hills

Chongqing
Wushan — The Gorges Above Chongqing

Anhui
Huangshan — The Mountain That Invented Chinese Landscape Painting

Anhui
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Anhui
A Road Trip Through Southern Anhui

Anhui
Guangde — An Ordinary County, Which Is the Point

Anhui
Lucun — New Year in an Anhui Village

Anhui
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